Electrician FAQs

Quotes for planned work such as panel upgrades, EV chargers, rewires, generators and lighting are free. Troubleshooting a fault is different, because finding the problem is the work: we charge a defined diagnostic fee and apply it toward the repair if you approve it on the same visit.

Emergencies are dispatched 24 hours a day and we normally have someone rolling within about an hour. Scheduled work is often available same-day or next-day, and larger projects such as panel upgrades and rewires are booked around permit and utility timelines.

All of it. We maintain crews across the state and cover more than 500 Georgia cities and towns, from metro Atlanta out to small rural communities. Check the locations page for your town.

Yes. You approve a price before work begins and that is what you pay. We do not run an hourly meter, and we do not apply overtime rates to an already-quoted job.

Yes, for all work that requires them: service and panel changes, new circuits, generator installations, EV charger circuits and rewiring. We file the permit, meet the inspector and hand you the signed paperwork.

There is an after-hours dispatch fee, and we tell you what it is on the phone before we come out. The repair itself is quoted flat like any other job.

Major credit and debit cards, ACH transfer, and check. Financing is available on larger projects such as service upgrades, rewires and generator installations.

Yes — offices, restaurants, retail, warehouses and light industrial. We schedule commercial work around your operating hours, including nights and weekends, and offer maintenance agreements with priority response.

We do pre-purchase electrical inspections with a written report and photographs, covering the service, panel, grounding, GFCI and AFCI protection, wiring methods and device condition, with a prioritized list of what genuinely matters.

Labor is warranted for one year on standard work, and manufacturer warranties apply to the equipment we install. If something we did fails within that period, we come back and fix it.

For most calls inside your city and the surrounding your county area we aim to have a technician rolling within about an hour of your call, and often sooner during the day. When you call (866) 651-5242 the dispatcher gives you a real arrival window rather than a vague promise, and calls you back if traffic or weather changes it.

We quote a flat price for the repair before we begin, and that price is what you pay. There is a call-out fee for after-hours dispatch that is disclosed on the phone before we come out, so nothing on the final invoice is a surprise.

If you smell burning, see sparks or see smoke, get everyone away from the area and call 911 first. Otherwise, switch off the affected breaker if you can reach the panel safely, unplug anything on that circuit, and keep water away from the panel. Do not attempt to reset a breaker repeatedly if it trips right back.

It can be. A breaker doing its job is protecting you from an overload or a short, and repeatedly resetting it defeats that protection. If it trips instantly with nothing plugged in, or if the panel is warm or smells hot, treat it as urgent and call (866) 651-5242.

That pattern usually points to a lost leg of the incoming service, a failed main breaker, or a bad neutral at the panel or meter. It is one of the most common emergency calls we take in your city and it needs testing at the service equipment, not guesswork at the outlets.

Yes. We document what failed with photos and a written scope, make the property safe first, and provide the paperwork your adjuster needs for the repair claim.

Most residential 200 amp upgrades in the your city area land in a predictable range, and the variables are the meter base condition, the length of the service run, whether the mast needs replacing and how much of the existing branch wiring can be reused. We look at all of that on site and give you one flat number before any work begins. Call (866) 651-5242 for an assessment.

Plan on most of a working day. The panel swap itself is a few hours, but the utility disconnect and reconnect and the inspection window drive the schedule. We tell you the expected outage window in advance so you can plan around refrigeration and work-from-home.

Yes. Service equipment changes require a permit and an inspection in your county and everywhere else in Georgia. We pull it, meet the inspector and give you the signed-off paperwork, which matters when you sell the house.

Common signs are breakers that trip under normal use, no empty spaces left for new circuits, a fuse box instead of breakers, scorch marks or rust inside the cabinet, a panel that feels warm, or lights that dim when a large appliance starts. Any of those is worth a look.

Sometimes. If a load calculation shows spare capacity and there is a free double space, a Level 2 charger can go on the existing panel, occasionally with a load management device. We run that calculation before recommending an upgrade you may not need.

A sub panel is a secondary breaker box fed from your main service, used to put circuits closer to where they are needed such as a detached garage, workshop or addition. It is usually cheaper and tidier than running many long individual circuits back to the main panel.

The honest answer is that it depends on square footage, how many stories, whether there is attic and crawlspace access, plaster versus drywall, and how many devices you want at the end. We walk the house, count the circuits and devices, and give you a written flat price with the scope spelled out. Call (866) 651-5242 to book that walkthrough.

Almost never. We phase the work so that you always have power to the kitchen, at least one bathroom and the bedrooms. Individual areas go dark for a day at a time rather than the whole house at once.

A small two-bedroom is often a week. A larger two-story with plaster walls and limited access can run three weeks or more. We give you a day-by-day sequence up front so you know which rooms are affected when.

It is the earliest residential wiring method, with separate hot and neutral conductors run through ceramic insulators. It has no ground, its insulation becomes brittle with age, and it is dangerous when buried in modern insulation. Many insurers in Georgia will not write a policy on a house that still has active knob-and-tube.

Aluminum branch circuit wiring from the late sixties and seventies is not inherently unsafe, but its connections loosen as the metal expands and contracts, and loose connections overheat. The accepted remedy is to pigtail every device with approved connectors, or to rewire. We do both and document what was done.

We keep access holes as small and as few as possible and can either leave them for your painter or handle patch and texture as part of the scope. Tell us which you prefer when we quote.

A straightforward garage install near the panel is the low end. Cost rises with distance from the panel, whether the run is exposed or fished through finished walls, whether it goes outdoors or to a detached structure, and whether the service needs upgrading. We quote one flat number after looking at the panel and the route. Call (866) 651-5242.

Not necessarily. Plenty of your city homes charge fine on a 100 or 150 amp service, especially with a 32 or 40 amp charger or a load management device. The load calculation decides it, not a rule of thumb.

Hardwiring supports the highest charge rates and is generally the more durable choice for a permanent home charger. A 14-50 receptacle is flexible if you rent, move often, or want to take the charger with you. We install both and will tell you which suits your situation.

Most single-charger installs in your city are done in three to six hours. Long runs, panel upgrades or trenching to a detached garage extend that to a full day or two.

Yes. That usually means a buried feeder and often a small sub panel at the structure, which is also handy if you want lights and outlets out there. We size the feeder for the charger plus whatever else you plan to add.

Yes. EV circuits require a permit in your county like any other new 240 volt circuit. We file it, meet the inspector and hand you the signed paperwork.

It depends on what must keep running. A unit covering essentials such as the refrigerator, well pump, furnace blower, internet and a few lighting circuits is far smaller than one carrying central air and an electric range. We total your real demand on site and recommend the smallest unit that comfortably does the job. Call (866) 651-5242.

Most residential installs in your city take one to two days on site once the unit and permit are in hand. Gas line work, pad curing and the inspection can spread that across a week or two of calendar time.

If outages are frequent, if anyone in the house depends on powered medical equipment, if you have a well or a sump pump, or if you are away from home often, automatic standby earns its cost quickly. If outages are rare and short, an inlet and interlock for a portable unit gives most of the benefit for a fraction of the price.

Yes, and it is one of our most common generator jobs in your county. We install the inlet, the interlock or transfer switch and the labeling so you can power circuits safely without backfeeding the utility line.

Yes. They exercise themselves weekly but still need oil, filters, battery checks and a load test annually. A generator that has not been serviced in five years usually does not start when you finally need it.

It can, with the right size unit and gas supply. Many customers in your city choose a mid-size unit with load management instead, which sheds the air conditioner briefly when the well pump kicks on. It costs less and the difference is barely noticeable.

It is normally priced per fixture, with the first one costing more because it includes the switch leg and the circuit work. Attic access above the room makes it cheaper; a second-floor ceiling with a finished room above costs more because everything is fished. Call (866) 651-5242 for a per-fixture number.

A rough starting point is one fixture for every 20 to 25 square feet of ceiling, adjusted for ceiling height, wall color and what the room is for. Kitchens need more light over work surfaces; bedrooms usually need less than people expect. We lay it out before we cut.

Almost always a mismatch between the LED driver and an older dimmer designed for incandescent loads. Replacing the dimmer with a compatible model, and sometimes adding a bypass, resolves it. It is a quick and inexpensive visit.

Yes. That means running a new circuit or switch leg and installing a fan-rated brace box, since a standard fixture box will not support a fan's weight and vibration. We do this regularly in your city homes.

We do — line voltage and low voltage, including transformers, buried runs, path lights, uplights and timers. We come back after dark to aim the fixtures, because aiming them in daylight never works.

Absolutely, and it is the best time. We coordinate rough-in with your contractor before insulation and drywall so the cans, switches and fan boxes all land where the design wants them.

Nine times out of ten in your city homes it is a tripped GFCI receptacle upstream, often in a garage, bathroom or exterior wall, protecting outlets in other rooms. The other common cause is a failed push-in connection at a device. Both are quick fixes once located.

We charge a diagnostic fee to find the problem, then quote a flat repair price before doing the work. If you approve the repair on the same visit, the diagnostic applies toward it. Call (866) 651-5242 and we will explain the numbers before you book.

That is an overloaded circuit rather than a fault, and the fix is a dedicated circuit for the heavy appliance. Kitchens in older your city homes frequently have one or two circuits doing the work of six.

Yes, treat it as urgent. Warmth means resistance, and resistance at a connection is what starts electrical fires. Stop using the outlet, switch off the breaker if you can identify it, and call (866) 651-5242.

We do. We check the service, panel, grounding, GFCI and AFCI protection, visible wiring methods and device condition, then give you a written report with photos and a prioritized list of what actually matters.

Usually, yes. We fish new runs through wall cavities from an attic, basement or crawlspace and cut only the opening needed for the box. On slab homes with finished ceilings the route is trickier, and we will tell you honestly before we start.

Yes, and for most your city retail and restaurant clients that is the default. We schedule the noisy and power-off portions overnight or on your slowest day, and we agree the shutdown windows in writing before we start.

We do. Three-phase distribution, disconnects, motor circuits and equipment hookups for commercial kitchens, shops and light industrial spaces around your county.

We take commercial emergency calls 24 hours a day at (866) 651-5242. Businesses with a maintenance agreement move to the front of the queue, which is the main reason our regular clients keep one.

Yes. Send drawings and a specification and we will return a line-itemed bid with a schedule. We coordinate with general contractors, HVAC and low-voltage trades routinely.

For high-bay spaces running long hours, the lighting bill usually drops substantially and maintenance drops even further because you stop replacing lamps at height. We will model your specific fixture count and hours before you commit.

We do. Periodic inspections of panels, thermal checks on connections, exit and emergency light testing, and a documented punch list. It is how most breakdowns get caught before they close a business.

Usually yes. The options are running a neutral to the box, using a smart switch designed for no-neutral operation, or moving the control to the fixture with a smart relay. Which one is cheapest depends on your wall construction, and we will look before recommending.

We set it up. A smart switch that is installed but not joined to your network and not named sensibly is not finished work. We connect the devices, group them, and walk you through it before leaving.

Most often the existing chime transformer supplies too little power for a video unit. Replacing it with an appropriately rated transformer, and sometimes running fresh wire, resolves the vast majority of these calls in your city.

For phones and laptops, Wi-Fi is fine. For access points, cameras, televisions and anything that must not drop, wired is dramatically more reliable. If walls are open, run the cable; it is inexpensive now and impossible later.

Yes. For larger your city homes we usually recommend a wired lighting control approach for the main living areas and smart switches elsewhere, which balances reliability against cost.

Well-chosen ones will. Switches with local control still work as normal switches, and hub-based systems keep running scenes locally. Cloud-only devices stop. We steer people toward gear that fails gracefully.